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German beer

not mad but fresh

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While Beermad prepares for a fall appearance, Oso Brewing organized a festival while we wait. They tried something a little different in terms of consumption; pay a fairly sizable entrance fee and then drink as much as you want. Given that I seek out stouts, which tend to be on the more expensive side, I think I can make the €40 worth it. It’s in the upstairs space of Chamartín, where Beergote was a few years ago, and most likely with much better temperatures. Unfortunately, those temperatures come with some moisture as well, making the outdoor space a little less usable. I was happy to see quite a line ahead of me when I arrived 20 minutes before the doors opened. This is what a festival is supposed to start up like, with anxious patrons looking forward to getting in there! We were lined up under some overhanging building features, so when it started raining, hard, just before noon, we were not bothered. It took a good 15 minutes to get in the door, with some starts and stops to keep the glass distribution uncluttered. I did not see stouts featured at first, but checking the guide, I saw a few on offer. I managed to hop right up to Vault City while the tapman was explaining their stout Swiss Peaks to some other interested visitors. It’s based on Toblerone, with chocolate and caramel, and supposed to be a cheeky little brew. How can I resist?

Waiting, waiting…

It’s a good, dark color, with a candied and nutty aroma, and an inexistant head. It really does smell like a Toblerone. The taste is a pleasant blend of stouty earth, salt, chocolate, and something a little rubbery, reminiscent of airports. It’s not very heavy in texture, but firm bodied. They keep the ABV a secret on the guide – too strong and scary or too unbelievably light?

It’s coming on 12:30 and there’s still a pretty long line of people waiting to access the fest. Seems like a positive, except for them. I find Soma and Factory side by side, each with a nice sounding stout for me. Factory is a little less busy, so that’s where I start, with Lady Cupcake #10. It’s another “simple” imperial stout, nicely dark colored and also rather lacking in head. There’s a vaguely sweet aroma, but very subtle. Tastewise, it’s something a little different. There’s a burst of cherry with a dark chocolate cake, oddly dry feeling in the mouth, and a slight hint of timber in the aftertaste. I’d expect it to be shortly barrel aged, but it doesn’t seem to be one of those. It’s a very respectable stout though.

There’s a line building up inside, and at first I’m not sure what for. Later I see it’s for Messorem, and even later I find out why everyone is willing to wait.

I wander back to the pair from before, but this time I sidle up to Soma. Burial sounds like something preprared for a Halloween release, but here it is on a fertility promoting May afternoon. Again, merely imperial stout, but also again, very good looking. He filled the glass right up to the tippy top, but still no head. The aroma is very slight, but there’s something earthy and wooden wafting up. The wood also comes out in the flavor, strikingly so. Hard nuts and vegetation also come to mind. It has that nutty flavor that’s not exactly sweet, but there’s no traditional stout bitter. There’s another character in there too, some kind of smoking supporting actor lurking in the background, not quite in focus but leaving its mark.

Anspach & Hopday sounds like it ought to be German, but it is not, it is English. They didn’t get their Stout Porter delivered to them, so maybe some postal workers are having a party somewhere, but lots of people spoke very well of London Black, so I’m persuaded to give a nitro beer a chance. It’s fascinating to see in the glass, but the show is over a little too quick for my camera skills. As expected, it’s very easy drinking, with a sort of mineral watery flavor. The head, finally, is perky and abundant. All respect to A&H, they must work hard, but it is as I feared and just another nitro beer. I can understand what other people like, but it does nothing for me.

The bubbles, almost got ’em!

Neighboring stand Cloudwater had a **barrel aged** stout, which felt like something deserved after that nitro. The rain had let up and people were drifting out into the patio area for a little extra room, although the surfaces were not really ready for sitting on. Cleaning staff was mopping inside most of the time, and were even trying to dry off the outside tables, to little avail. Trees For Life is quite the name, and quite the beer from the get go. Cinnamon, cherry, ginger, the aroma is incredible. It has a sort of Christmas candle essence to it. The taste does not disappoint. Apfelstrudel, gingerbread, a faded memory of Sachertorte, this beer is a glory and privilege to drink. It kills off any previous disappointment, and doesn’t stop there. The complexity of flavors builds, they melt into each other to create a fantastic blend of experiences. This isn’t an all-year beer, this is a beer that transcends time, with notes for every season, a weight for winter and a shining light for summer.

It mught not be fair for any beer to come after Trees, but Lervig is a formidable stout maker and if anyone can come to the match up, it’s them. Five By Rackhouse is also barrel aged, so it’s starting from the same place at least, but it doesn’t have the jack-in-the-box of scents. It’s mild and disarming, and diving in there’s a definitely stouty but also syrupy flavor. It leans toward bourbon, clearly displaying its barrel aged background, but it’s not as explosive as Trees. Still, Five is well-presented, solid, balanced, self-assured and hitting all the necessary points. It might not be a Black Forest Stout, but it is a delight in itself.

It’s finally time to switch it up and look for something else, perhaps a fruit sour to cleanse the palate. Sudden Death has an enticing one: Blåbärsoppa International Women’s Day Celebration Beer! There was a woman serving, fittingly. So, a couple of months late, but still appetizing. It’s a deep ruby red with a strawberry whiff, and wow oh wow, it’s cherry Kool-aid! It is in fact delicious, not to mention clean, sweet, summery and hopeful.

Sad, cold empanada

I haven’t visited the local beers this festival, which you really should. If not for them, there would be no audience, after all. I wander over to their taps and at this time we have Arktos, which I am well familiar with. I’m still trying to land gently after all those stouts, so I choose the honey beer, which is not exceptionally heavy. It’s not exactly a palate cleanser, but it certainly doesn’t take up all the air and has that touch of sweetness that perks you right up.

Water down yer drink?

Wandering with my honey beer, I run into my old beer friend Javi! It’s been years, but he’s looking well. He strongly recommened Messorem’s stout to me, and for good measure let me enjoy the last drops that he had in his glass…I was ready to let it go because of the line, but holy shit, that is not a beer to pass up. After warmly felt niceties I hustle over and get in line. I’m not quite sure why it moves so slowly, maybe there are some very chatty people up front. Finally I reach the end and get my little taste of heaven, Messorem Passage Temporale. We’re back to low head beers, and with a licory aroma on top of that, but there’s something else. This is a familiar sensation. It’s Sahale’s special rum stout! It’s cake in a glass, honeyed and cunning. It doesn’t have the onslaught of Trees, but it is undeniably delicious and a beer after my own heart. Despite its smoothness, it’s not a beer to rush through, it deserves its time and contemplation, and would really be a better beer for a porch or terrace than a bustling beer fair, where you can calmly observe your surroundings and enjoy to the utmost.

I still have some time and some thirst, so I veer back over to the fruity beers. How could anyone walk past Pretty Decent Beer? What kind of name is that if not perfectly unassuming? They must be hiding some kind of achievement! Since it’s coming close to closing time for the first shift, I’ll go for a moderate sour, Honk If You’re Sour redcurrant beer. It’s dark red with a generally fruity aroma, no specific ingredients stand out. It’s not very sweet in taste but has a strong flavor of natural fruit, not very sour but very drinkable. There’s just a touch of acidity and to my relief, no sulfur or gassiness like that which plagues other fruit beers.

Time is running out! Do I have enough time for something light? I think I can make time. There’s Prizm, a venerable contender among cans, always with something special and tasty. No stout, but the one for the road should be something lighter anyway. How about a NEIPA? Recess is also a collab with Frau Gruber, so all the better for me. It’s a light straw color, with hardly any aroma, but there’s a strong ale flavor. It’s only slightly bitter, and somewhat melony, very refreshing, a good send-off. Time to go sleep off the excesses of the day, and get home while the sun still shines.

Bye, crowd

ruby in the rough

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The number of beer stores in Madrid has been reduced by more than half since its height, maybe eight or nine years ago. They are still around, of course, but even smaller supermarkets have more of a variety than they used to. Part of that is the swing by big breweries to more creative beers, following the lead of the craft breweries, with the obvious intention of stamping out the competition. Lidl shows off a little bit of Germanicism on its shelves, despite being no Fass, and how was I supposed to resist a German Red? The can is eye-catching in its decoration too, if you’re into that style. Steam Brew’s website seems to identify the brewery as German, “German craft beer resistance” they say. I don’t feel like sharing my Youtube data with anybody, as if I really have a choice, so I’m not watching the intro video. Maybe there is some more information on the brewery itself and not just their mythos, or maybe it’s an animated version of their website story. You can look for yourself if you’re curious. I’m going to dig into that German Red.

Very bubbly, but firm and resistant head. It’s definitely a red beer, and gives off a malty, bready aroma, befitting a German style. The taste is slightly sweet and gently honeyed. I struggle to pin a fruit on it, wavering between apples, raspberries, and pears. It’s perhaps surprisingly well-bodied for a supermarket beer, although I shouldn’t forget that bigger breweries can make heavier beers when they feel like it. Searching the website, I see this is labeled a Bockbier, which makes the weight make sense. A bit of a sour-bitter aftertaste builds up after a while, but it isn’t very bothersome, and probably with some light snack it wouldn’t even be noticeable. I might have to seek out the rest of the collection, at least to ease up on the pocket a little.

what do you expect?

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Picked up a few new gems from Hidden Beers, reopened after the summer holidays. I didn’t get my email in correctly though, so the exact prices have flown off into the ether. They’re a little over 6 euros each, that much I can be sure of. Close enough? I was hoping for more stouts or themed beers, but there wasn’t much to be had. There was this DDH double IPA, with a season appropriate design. Leave it to Germans to give us just what we need when we’re on a beer hunt. Sudden Death’s Devil In Disguise might burn a hole in my throat if DDH beers of the past have given me anything to go by. It might start out nice, you know, in disguise, but eventually that fiery devil will have to come out.

Bright and sunny looking liquid and frothy laundry-white head, this devil definitely appears friendly at first glance. The aroma is sweet on top but layered on nuttiness and savoriness. The savory comes out first in the flavor, followed by a melony feel and peachy finish. There’s some pith lurking in the aftertaste, but it’s very smooth in feel in general. It starts to develop almost a candy flavor, with a mix of lemon and butterscotch. It’s not the rough and tumble DDH I was expecting, but maybe that’s part of the disguise. Maybe there’s a big pile of grassy, caraway sediment on the bottom waiting to surprise me. No, there is not. The beer remains pleasant, smooth and weirdly desserty to the end. I don’t think I want to complain much about it though, it’s been unseasonably warm and a sugary treat gives you energy to get to the shade.

Supplier: Hidden Beers
Price: €6+

moonlighting

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We are past the longest day of the year, and in Madrid the changes are actually easily noticeable from week to week. Still, it isn’t quite time for drinks outside under the moon. I mean, you could wait until night and moon are fully in force, but the atmosphere can be a bit oppressive on the ears. Much better to have your favorite style at home and at your leisure. Oh yes, the favorite style, you know what’s coming now. This time it’s a German-US collab, so that ought to be fun. It certainly has an intriguing label, this Dead Moon Cove. It looks a little like a classic Halloween movie poster. Will Third Moon Brewing and Sudden Death Brewing give us something so good it’s scary? Or just a horror?

It pours out thick and oily, barely letting any head build up at all. It smells like a bakery. Pretty much that’s it, a bakery. One that never burns the product and uses the best chocolate and vanilla. It’s another thick one, almost like a melted milkshake, but really it’s thicker than that. It’s almost like drinking chocolate syrup, except there’s an extra level of flavor besides the chocolate part. The alcohol sits boldly in the middle with a halo of decadent sweeteners around it, like the most extravagant 18th-century dessert. I’m saying 18th-century because after all my video watching, my impression is that they just didn’t overload their taste buds the way we do, although they did like a little, quality, spice like vanilla and cinnamon. Oh yeah, some cinnamon wanders out too. The glass is positively covered with a sticky film after the beer has been there, something they say about stronger alcohol sometimes. It’s not a beer that I would identify merely as imperial stout, although it does have strength and majesty about it, but one of the better crafted pastry stouts. The rich bakery sensations are there, as is an exceptionally weighty mouthfeel, but it’s restrained and refined, not punch you in the dental work sweet. Highly enjoyable, any day of the year for me, maybe with some ice cream just out the freezer for the rest. They say stouts are having a moment this year, but I think this one might be stronger than most people want at poolside. Missing out, I say!

Supplier: La Mundial
Price: €9.90

under a cloud

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It’s an odd kind of day – warmer than you want for the time, but also not sunny at all. We’ll be having colder days next week, though, so I guess I just have to be patient. A nice German dunkel beer will brighten up the day. It’s one of those classic breweries too, Augustiner. Somehow I imagine Munich with the opposite weather…

Extra fluffy head, and dark caramel color, but still somewhat transparent. It’s not very aromatic, but there’s a whiff of grain and grass there. The taste is surprisingly dry, tilting towards bitter but with a good base of malt. It’s clean drinking, although there is a clearly bitter aftertaste. It’s a typical German dunkles, malty and ever so slightly sweet, but without any stickiness that some sweeter beers and lagers from other places can suffer from. It’s a year-rounder for me, with enough lightness to be palatable in summer but also enough body to make a stand against winter chills. Would I prefer a stout? Sure, I always feel some preference for stout, but it’s good to keep your experiences varied. It’s not usually regrettable, and this time is no exception.

Supplier: Más Que Cervezas
Price: €2.40

last whispers

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It’s not a black beer, but bocks do have the heavier feel to them that I generally like. This is not famous Spaten, but it is an authentic German bock, from Weiherer of Bavaria. Maybe I cold have picked out some red ale or fruited sour for the coming holiday, or saved that Mahou rosé, but sometimes it’s nice to rest on a standard. Like many classic things, there are reasons why some styles remain popular for decades and centuries. Weiherer itself is not a traditional, centuries old brewery, only having about 30 years under its belt, but it does make some big claims about its sustainability and care with the environment. Sadly, that’s not very traditional at all. But in the future, it may be that those attitudes will be the ones that survive. Here’s to trying, Weiherer!

Clear, golden brew, just a thin sliver of head, and not terribly aromatic. It has kind of a sour grass smell, not exactly what I expect from a bock. Flavorwise, though, it does line up. It’s not as heavy as Spaten bock, but it has a dark maltiness and a certain solidness of body. There’s a flicker of sourness, but it’s much more clearly bitter. It’s not quite a light summery beer, although it doesn’t go down the path of darkness either. It eases up on the bitter, growing some grainy sweetness, fitting right in with the typical bock character. I feel like it could go with some little treat, tart apple or mild cheese, but even on its own it feels nourishing.

Supplier: Labirratorium
Price: €3.75

moths

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On the fourth day of Beermas I went and got for me
Four silent moths
Three frisky parrots
A bottle but not two cans
And more than half a liter of perry

I wavered between the four moths and something louder for calling birds, but the moths wouldn’t let me push them aside in the end. They’re fine, too, all four of them staring into the middle of the design. The silence is deafening I’m sure. It’s a helles bock from Naparbier, very reliable for good stuff, in collaboration with Mahrs Bräu. Getting an authentic German brewery to help on a German style beer may just be a selling point for Napar, which has produced excellent beers of almost all styles, as mentioned. Maybe Motte have some extra Teutonic touch.

The brightness of the beer contrasts with the shadowy glumness of the can, but is appropriate for the helles style. A nice cap of head comes up while pouring, although it dissolves quickly. The aroma is very subtle, but I can pick out some grain and fresh bread. The mouthfeel is oddly thick and heavy, there’s even a little whisper of licorice, so this is the bock experience coming out. It leaves hardly any aftertaste. In spite of the weight of the beer, it goes down very easily and cleanly. It has a depth of flavor I associate with bocks more than with helles, and in spite of the sunny appearance, I can feel a gravity around it that goes with the season. Fourth day down!

nicht zu spät

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Oh, the last beer of Oktoberfest, how quickly you come! I saved Spaten for last, which I might be thankful for, if it’s anything like their bock. Spaten is one of the oldest of the Munich breweries allowed to participate in Oktoberfest, with records from the end of the 14th century. The name comes from it’s 17th century owners and it has had a slow but steady growth over the years, to finally merge with Löwenbräu in the 1990s after a merger with Franziskaner earlier in the century. They are now under the wing of AB InBev, which certainly helps their availability, and at least with Spaten Bock still leaves a delightful beer.

It’s a much lighter straw color than the bock, on par with a couple of the other festbiers. Fluffy head and lively bubbles show the party is ready to start. I struggle to get much aroma out of it, I think there’s a little lemon in there but that might be the influence of the color, only after some focused sniffing does there seem to be a little bread hovering under the edge of the glass. The rounded maltiness of the bock must be at the forefront of my mind, since I can’t help but think of Spaten Oktoberfest as Bock Lite. It has a similar fresh grain taste right off, descending slowly into something more bitter and typically beery. It doesn’t have as much presence in the mouth as the bock, or even a couple of the other festbiers, but it makes its mark with the flavor. It’s strong and bright, oddly summery on a rainy weekend, and slips away cleanly with practically no aftertaste at all. It’s an especially bright sunset on a festival, and a big contrast to the coming months…when we will relish the darkness!

Supplier: Labirratorium
Price: €2.50

third chance

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Paulaner might be the easiest German beer to find in Madrid, if not Franziskaner, but it’s not one of my favorites. There are quite a few I would choose over it, sorry wheat beer fans. I do like a Salvator, though. According to their website, Salvator was the first beer produced by the monks whose labor would become the Paulaner brewery, with the more famous wheat beer coming later, and Oktoberfest, well, with Oktoberfest. Paulaner sponsors one of Madrid’s Oktoberfest celebrations, usually in some kind of sporting venue, although I think it was in the patio of the newer Príncipe Pío building once. I’m at 50/50 with my enjoyment of Paulaner, so I guess this will be a tie-breaker.

Even a little lighter in color than Löwenbräu, but with a slightly meatier aroma. There’s a little bit of spice, kind of a caraway bun scent that greets my nostrils. The head is abundant at first, but fades down to an adequate but not excessive cover. I am reminded of Paulaner’s wheat beer at first – there’s a tingle of sweetness and a good, rounded feel, but the aftertaste maintains a fresh and meadowy flavor instead of the smoky sour that I remember from that wheat. Heavier than Löwenbräu, more in line with the others, it’s a beer you would get comfortable to drink, not only because you probably have a liter of it in a glass mug. I am not disappointed.

Supplier: Más Que Cervezas
Price: €2.25

cat’s meow

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To begin the second half, Löwenbräu! The brewery has a presence in bars where import beers are prevalent. I remember it being a more impressive experience than Paulaner or even Franziskaner, but I haven’t had the pleasure for quite some time. Also, the normal import beers aren’t the Oktoberfest beers, just the normal lagers.

Back to extra bubbly and pale gold, but this one has a vanishingly faint aroma. The taste is also light and delicate, with just a teasing amount of sweet breadiness. This is one of the lighter of the festbiers, flowing in and down without fuss. While the last three had a good amount of weight and you get the sense that they will nail you to your seat (not such a bad thing at Oktoberfest, actually), this is a beer you could stand up and walk around with. It’s also lower alcohol than previous beers, but still more than 6%, which is stronger than what you would be getting from your standard evening lager.

Supplier: Más Que Cervezas
Price: €2.25

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