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Spanish beer

won’t leave you crabby

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So, a quick break from the road of darkness, but don’t worry! We’ll be back on it soon enough. It felt right at the moment to get a variety pack from Lambeer, since I’m focusing on cans in the refrigerator. I hesitated before picking up Crab Fruit, to be honest, but it doesn’t look like it has isinglass or anything. It is a smoothie sour ale, packed with tropical fruit and a restaurant mascot quality crab on the label. We thought it might have been coming on fall, but it looks like temperatures will be going back up. Oh well, a good sour can perk you up on a steamy night, no matter the season.

Very bright and lemonadey color, fizzy and nice head at first, but it soon fizzles out. There’s a tiny bit of sour and seashore in the aroma, barely gassy, peachy and coconutty. It almost tastes like a piña colada, but maybe a little more sour than they usually are. There’s a light covering of tropical fruit flavors over a sourball center. I’m clear on the pineapple and coconut, and I think I can detect the vanilla, although I had to be reminded that it was there, but damned if I can’t identify the passionfruit in it. It stays tangy and with a little prickliness even as the fizziness peters out, but the brightness does keep it easy to drink. It’s an absolute ball of sunshine. The end of the can is … suddenly chunky. There’s quite a bit of sediment, I’m assuming the fruit puree. It doesn’t disrupt drinking at all, and brings a lot more pineapple to the flavor for the final kiss.

Supplier: Lambeer
Price: €6.90

carved out

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This was the first beer I grabbed off Más Que Cerveza’s shelf, with that luscious cake on the can and the promise of a dessert stout in the name. It certainly looks promising, this Black Forest Gateau. It’s an imperial milk stout with cherry puree and aged on oak chips, which makes it sound all fancy. I assumed Soul Fire was an English brewery, but the price should have tipped me off; you don’t often find big cans under €5 anymore, and an imported one would be absolutely unheard of. It is, in fact, a Spanish brewery, based in Jerez de la Frontera. The contact with wine-making was a benefit for a lot of the early craft breweries in the center of Spain, so maybe sherry will have a similar effect.

Finally a blacker stout, not so heady as recent ones though. There’s chocolate in the aroma, but with some kind of rubber. It smells more like a chocolate toy than real chocolate. Keep sniffing and the cherries will also come out to greet you shyly. Not as sweet as the name implies, and a little rubbery in flavor too. I wonder if it’s some reaction in the oak that brings that out. Eventually the fruit essence goes more banana than cherry but it never really gets sweeter. The woodiness comes out more and gets a little rougher, which is something different. Although the flavor is unignorable, the beer itself has a very light feel and a certain smoothness in spite of the up-front oak presence. I think this one would really benefit from some dessert along with it, just so you don’t feel like you’re chewing on wood chips through the whole can. It starts to pick up some smokiness after a while, is the wood doing something special in there? I can’t say that this is my favorite of any recent beers, or even one I would recommend. Somebody probably likes it, but I wouldn’t want to presume.

Supplier: Más Que Cervezas
Price: €4.89

roll for luck

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It’s coming down to the end and I just need to fill another week with beer. As if that’s a problem. Maybe today I’ll take a short detour from the path of darkness, and pour out something new and shiny – a West Coast Pils. Hang on, what’s that? Is it just a pilsner with West Coast hops? According to some, it does hang quite a bit on the hops, although not exclusively. This one is primarily flavored with Krush, which is indeed a hop from the West Coast, and also “a touch of Citra”. It was the newish style plus the name Loco Dice that decided me, and only checking out did I realize it was from Garage. Now I’m well and truly sold on it.

It’s ridiculously light, with an abundant head that almost glows. It’s also perfectly clear, showing the tiny bubbles flying around like sea monkeys. The hops are present from the first second of the can being opened, jungly, catnippy, hitting both West Coast and pilsner notes. Straight from the beer, the aroma is extra bready and with a generous helping of savory. It’s like a liquid pretzel. A little bit of salty spice comes through in the flavor, but it’s definitely balanced with a natural grain sweetness. I’m pulled to try to identify a fruit sensation in keeping with the traditional connection of WC with IPA, but it really pulls off the pilsner. There’s that touch of honey and lemon that the classic ones give you, after a startling caraway puff into your nose. Despite it’s pilsiness and appearance of a quiet summer drink, it has a complexity that you feel the need to examine and almost brood over. From Garage, you can expect no less.

Supplier: Be Hoppy
Price: €5.75

a possible preview

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Boy, time flies when you’re having fun with beer, and it’s the last Arriaca in my stash. Maybe the red IPA would have been nice to save for the end, something powerful to go out with a bang to, but I do have a soft spot for märzens. I like to have one at the end of most days to shove me off to sleep. Thus far, Arriaca has been strong in both drinkabiliy and style compliance, so we can expect nothing less from Tostada Märzen. Just letting the Spanish drinker know what they’re in for with that first part, I guess.

It’s as typical a märzen as you could find, with the reddish gold color, the slightly honeyed aroma, and the rough malty flavor. As similar as it appears to Voll Damm, it has a little more stability and body. It’s smooth and soft, very pleasant drinking, and would be a nice counterpoint to sour-savory kraut and wurst or the blandness of potatoes. I have Oktoberfest on my mind already, especially since I’ve already seen signs around town for it. Maybe it’s a little heavy for some, but märzen is supposed to carry the strength of a whole summer of lagering. Once again, Arriaca shows its talent and skill, producing a quality beer that’s a true representative of its style and its maker.

ruby noma

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Now we’re getting daring! Parting from the pale ale and lager, it’s time for a red IPA, and Imperial Red IPA to boot! At least it must have been easy to choose the color for the label. I have learned that Arriaca was the first craft beer to appear in cans, certainly a trend later and practically the norm now, and one of the founders of AECAI, the association of independent Spanish craft brewers. They aren’t as old as some, but they are more than a decade old at this point, and as far as I can tell are still forging their own path. It’s probably a little romantic to hope for things to be long-lasting and unchanging, or at least changing slowly, in this day and age, but we all need some stability in our lives.

This is an appetizing look, with a dark rusty brown liquid and a thick off-white head. This one, despite its IPA category, is not especially aromatic. There’s just a little tickle of hops, but it’s more toasty than fruity. Like many red ales, it doesn’t follow a particular pattern, but has a wavering flavor between sweet and bitter. For most of the sip it’s on the sweet side, but there’s a definite bitter aftertaste. It has a well formed body that fills the mouth without being overwhelming, goes down easily, and is disarmingly soft for its alcohol content. It’s a little dangerous in fact, so easy to sip down that if you’re not careful you’ll have drunk the whole can, and a second one, before you know it.

hop day

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Right in the middle of my Arriaca flight, with a hoppy lager. While a more modern style, I’m expecting something of a traditional bent, much like their ales. My can is a little dirty, which I didn’t notice before, but it must have been something that happened on the shelf. The shitty fridge isn’t going to have dirt raining down from the top, is it? Nobody’s complained about food contamination yet. I’m a little disappointed that Arriaca does not list their hops like some other breweries do; it would be interesting to compare the varieties used in their styles.

This one has aroma that leaps out of the can. It’s not quite head-butting, but it makes itself known. The look is classic lager, bright golden color and bright white head, which really fills up the top of the glass. It takes its protective role seriously for this beer, I see. The taste is also practically an homage to traditional lagers, with sweet maltiness and just a touch of hops to cover up excess grain (not that I suspect excesses). It’s a bright call to arms, more energetic than the session IPA, although not too much more complex. It has a few layers to it, with the malt and a touch of lemon and honey. The frothy head decreases little by little, but pouring out the rest of the can revives it to its original glory. It’s a well balanced hoppy lager, with both components clearly detectable, but in a way that complements each other rather than fighting for attention.

quiet session

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Day two of Arriaca “flight¨, and I’m taking it easy. Today it’s their Session IPA, at less than 4%. It seems like the brewery is more active in fairs and industry activities towards the north of the country, showing in Salón Gourmets and winning medals in Barcelona and Frankfurt. I don’t know if the beer fairs of Madrid have become too small for their gastronomic ambitions, but there’s nothing wrong with pushing beer to a higher standard of recognition. It’s been the drink of kings, after all.

It appears to be a lighter version of the regular IPA, a more sunny golden color, and fluffily heady. Slightly spicier aroma, but still clearly in the IPA family. The session IPA is actually heavier on the citrus than the regular one, very orangey and tart. It doesn’t have the background of maltiness in the taste, being very clean and sharp. It’s a tasty but simple flavor. As a session IPA, it has a light feel and maybe the unsandwiched notes are best for its probable habitat – an afternoon drink or a nightcap, probably no meal, potentially a group sitting around having a good conversation.

a jaunt down memory lane

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My world tour might be over but my month of beer is not. Just over halfway through, so still a few days to go. I have another small series in line – Arriaca. It’s been a while since I’ve enjoyed an Arriaca, they used to be a little more present in the craft beer bars, being from nearby Guadalajara. Now, they’re easier to find canned on a supermarket shelf. Good for them, although it does make you wonder about their craft cred. I haven’t seen anything that shows them “selling out” at all, or doing collaborations that might tarnish their name, like some of our early craft friends. They have changed up the cans and modernized the labels a little, but it looks like pretty standard fare. They’re a brewery that always went for a quality known style rather than being overly experimental. Somebody has to do it! I’m starting simple this, with their IPA.

It looks like just the thing you want in an IPA, very clear, dark gold, abundantly headed. Quite a few bubbles decorate the sides of the glass, without obscuring the clarity. It also has the modern classic aroma, tropical citrus hops. It’s much maltier on the tongue than I expected, adding a touch of honey to the buzzy bitter. It has a pretty robust body on it, although there isn’t a lot of aftertaste or odd sensations left behind. There’s kind of a sugar cookie flavor to it, albeit one without that much sugar. It’s a striking example of the 21st century IPA, while still having nods to the historical style. It makes me wish Arriaca was more easily found on tap. Or hell, in a fridge.

other choices of tree

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I had a thing a few days ago, and I felt that the best thing would be to have a beer from Madrid. Since both FM and Mad Brewing are now out of action, we can only go to the outskirts. Yes, La Caníbal is in Mad Brewing’s old space, but I haven’t seen them canned and waiting in the stores. That leaves Península and Oso, although Cibeles could have been a ringer. Surprisingly, it’s a little hard to find things when you have specific names in mind, and moreso now that it’s vacation time in Spain. Finally, I did get a cheerful citrus beer from Oso, called, fittingly, Citrus. It looks pretty bright and tickly, although the back label warns of an “explosion” of partying fruits. This one does include orange and lemon juice, as well as Citra hops, so I think it might be NEIPAier than recent NEIPAs.

It pours out bubbly and stays bubbly in the glass, with relatively large spheres clinging to the sides. The head does not look very compact and vanishes quickly. It certainly has a citrusy color, lemony specifically, and gives off just a touch of lemon aroma. I was led to believe by the can that there would be a much stronger scent, but maybe they’re saving it for the taste. It is strongly flavored, and citrusy, more of a bitter orange than lemon. There is some feeling of natural lemonade in there, too. It’s surprisingly robust in mouthfeel, not thin and ephemeral like you might expect a lighter beer to be, but this has a roundness and hop leafiness that leaves you feeling like you have had a mouthful of something. Although this Citrus isn’t as powerful as I expected, I think it is appropriate for the season. It’s not bad to have something more subdued that you can quietly enjoy every once in a while. Not a NEIPA, in the end, but no regrets.

Supplier: La Buena Cerveza
Price: €5.50

say it three times

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Although I am not the biggest fan of sours, sometimes something in the ingredients, or the name or the label convince me to pick one up. This is one of those times. It’s Pyrene, a reliable brewery, so good start. And it’s covered in creepy monsters, so another point in its favor. And finally? Those monsters come from … BEETLEJUICE! No, I won’t repeat it twice more, I need to get down to drinking.

It’s leaping to escape the can, so much that it can’t even ruffle up a good head for itself. It does fizz so it kind of lean towards a soda more than a beer. The typical sour gassiness comes off it when you take a sniff, but it’s a very faint aroma this time. While it has good color, it’s almost pastel peachy, not a saturated red or pink. It has a delicate flavor, sweet, a little melony and strawberry, kind of a shaggy texture, but not spikey. This is very much a summer drink at first sip! It stays consistently fresh-fruity, not going sour, bitter, or syrupy. A very enjoyable sour, if I do say so myself. It’s a good choice on days when the street is like an oven, in triple digits Fahrenheit (a little more impressive than the double-digit Celsius measurements).

Supplier: Lambeer
Price: €6.50

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